Our Metals

Gold Vermeil

Gold vermeil (pronounced Ver-May) is a genuinely good option for anyone who wants the look and feel of gold jewellery without the price of solid gold. Here’s what it actually is, what makes it different from standard gold plating, and what to look for when you buy it.

What actually is Gold Vermeil?

Vermeil is gold plating, but a significantly higher quality version of it. To be called Vermeil the base metal must be sterling silver, not brass or any other base metal. And the gold layer must be at least 2.5 microns thick, at a minimum of 10 karat gold.

That might sound technical, but it matters in a practical way. Sterling silver is a precious metal. Brass is not. A thicker layer of gold means the piece wears better and lasts longer than standard gold plating. These requirements exist to protect the customer. Knowing what they are means you can shop with confidence, wherever you buy.

Because the base is sterling silver rather than wire or tube, vermeil allows for far more design freedom than gold filled. Cast pieces, organic shapes, more elaborate and detailed designs, all of these can be made in vermeil. That’s why you’ll see a much wider variety of styles available in vermeil than in gold filled.

How do you identify Gold Vermeil?

This is where it gets important. The term vermeil has a specific legal definition, and understanding what that means gives you a real advantage when you’re buying. As Australia does not have strict legal definitions for the term 'gold vermeil' we defer to the FTC standard in the United States.

The standard itself is set by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) in the USA - the regulatory body that oversees jewellery industry claims and consumer protection standards. Under FTC guidelines, a piece can only be described as vermeil if it has a sterling silver base and a gold layer of at least 2.5 microns thickness and the gold must be a minimum of 10 karat gold. 

This is where industry knowledge makes a real difference. Understanding what vermeil actually requires and knowing how to verify it, takes genuine industry knowledge and experience. We know what to look for, what questions to ask our suppliers, and how to verify that what we’re receiving meets the standard. That’s why we check our pieces, measure the plating and use XRF testing to independently verify the thickness of every incoming order before it reaches you.

We will always let you know about the sterling silver base, the karat of the gold and the plating thickness in all of our product descriptions so you don't have to go digging around to find out exactly what you are buying.

How does it wear over time?

Vermeil wears well with proper care, better than standard gold plating, because the gold layer is thicker and the sterling silver base is more stable than brass. With regular wear and the right care routine, a good vermeil piece will hold its finish for a meaningful period of time.

That said, the gold layer will wear over time. It’s a surface coating, and like all surface coatings it will show wear eventually, particularly on pieces that take the most daily contact, like rings. When it does wear, re-plating is an option. The sterling silver base means the piece has a long life if you want to maintain it.

Regular cleaning makes a real difference. Oils, lotions, and perfume build up on the surface and dull the finish over time. A gentle clean with a soft cloth after wearing keeps vermeil looking its best.

What about water and everyday wear?

Vermeil is not waterproof and should not be treated as such. Brief, incidental water contact is generally fine if you dry the piece promptly. Beyond that, we advise taking pieces off before swimming, showering, or any extended water exposure.

Chlorine and salt water are particularly harsh on the gold layer and will accelerate wear. The same goes for cleaning products, lotions, and perfume. Put jewellery on last, after skincare and fragrance, and take it off before any water activity. Those two habits alone will significantly extend the life of your vermeil pieces.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

Gold vermeil is a good option for most people with sensitive skin. The sterling silver base and the substantial gold layer mean the base metal is not in contact with your skin under normal wear conditions.

One thing worth knowing for those with heightened sensitivities, because you deserve the full picture.

Although the alloys used in vermeil do not contain nickel, sterling silver and gold alloys are produced on shared manufacturing lines. If a nickel-bearing alloy has passed through the same production process, there can be minute trace elements of nickel present in the finished material. This is very rare and wouldn’t affect the vast majority of people. But if you’re hypersensitive to nickel rather than just sensitive, it’s something to factor in.

Is Gold Vermeil right for me?

Vermeil is a strong choice if you want real gold over a precious metal base, more design variety than gold filled allows, and a piece that will hold up well with proper care.

It’s for the woman who wants her jewellery to look real and of high quality. The one who wants the freedom to choose something more detailed or elaborate without paying the price of solid gold. The one who follows a care routine because she understands that looking after something well is part of owning it properly.

It suits a statement ring worn to an event and stored carefully afterwards. A pendant necklace that gets layered with simpler chains for everyday wear and comes off before the shower. A pair of drop earrings chosen for a specific look, worn well, and looked after between wears. Jewellery that rewards attention with longevity.

The honest caveat is the same as for any surface coated material. It requires some care, it will show wear over time, and it is not the same as solid gold. But for what it is, done properly, it’s a genuinely good option and one of the most versatile materials in our range.

Sterling Silver

Sterling silver is one of the most widely used metals in quality jewellery and one of the most misunderstood. Here’s what it actually is, how it behaves, and what to expect from it over time.

What actually is Sterling Silver?

Sterling silver is 92.5% pure silver, mixed with a small amount of other metals (usually copper) to give it the strength it needs to hold its shape as jewellery as pure silver is too soft for everyday jewellery.

It’s a real, precious metal. Not a base metal with a coating on top. What you see is what you’re wearing all the way through.

How do you identify Sterling Silver?

Genuine sterling silver carries the hallmark 925. That number refers to the 92.5% silver content of the metal and is the standard identifier for sterling silver worldwide. If you’re buying sterling silver jewellery anywhere it’s worth looking for that stamp. If it isn’t there, ask. A piece that can’t be identified as 925 may not be genuine sterling silver. 

One honest exception is on very fine, delicate pieces where it can be physically impossible to stamp the hallmark without damaging the piece. If you’re buying something extremely fine and can’t locate the 925 mark, that’s not automatically a red flag. It is worth asking the seller to confirm the material.

At Bowerbird Jewels, all our sterling silver pieces meet the 925 standard. We’ll always tell you exactly what you’re buying.

The truth about Sterling Silver and tarnish

Here’s the honest part, sterling silver tarnishes. It’s not a flaw. It’s just what silver does when it’s exposed to air, moisture, and the natural oils on your skin. Think of it like a good copper pan developing a patina. It’s a sign the material is real, not a sign something has gone wrong.

The good news is that tarnish is completely reversible. A soft polishing cloth brings sterling silver back to bright in minutes. With regular wear and a little basic care, most people find their silver pieces stay in great condition for years, often decades.

What about water?

Sterling silver and water can coexist, but with some care. Brief contact is fine like washing your hands, having a shower. That’s not going to cause problems just make sure you dry the piece promptly.

What to avoid is leaving pieces wet for extended periods, wearing them in chlorinated pools or the ocean, and putting them on right after applying lotion or perfume. These are the things that speed up tarnishing. Spa baths can turn sterling silver black which requires extensive cleaning to remove the tarnish.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

Sterling silver is one of the better options for sensitive skin. It is nickel free, and for most people with metal sensitivities, it’s a comfortable and reliable choice.

The copper content in sterling silver can occasionally cause a mild reaction in people with a specific copper sensitivity. This is uncommon, but worth being aware of if you’ve had reactions to copper before.

Sterling silver is produced on shared manufacturing lines, and if a nickel-bearing alloy has passed through the same production process, there can be minute trace elements of nickel present in the finished material. This is very rare and wouldn’t affect the vast majority of people. But if you’re hypersensitive to nickel rather than just sensitive, it’s something to factor in.

Is Sterling Silver right for me?

Sterling silver suits anyone who wants a real precious metal at an accessible price point, and who doesn’t mind a small amount of maintenance to keep it looking its best. It’s particularly well suited to people who love the look of silver, wear jewellery regularly and want pieces that genuinely last.

Sterling silver doesn’t require much maintenance. The maintenance it does require is consistent, a simple routine of keeping it dry, storing it properly, and polishing it occasionally is all it takes to keep a sterling silver piece looking its best for years, often decades.

Gold Filled

Gold filled is a genuinely durable material that looks like solid gold, wears well, and sits at an accessible price point. Like every metal, it has its strengths and its limitations. Here’s what you need to know.

What actually is Gold Filled?

The best way to understand gold filled is to think of aluminium foil. A flat sheet of karat gold is wrapped around a brass core, whether that’s a wire, a tube, or a flat sheet of metal and then mechanically bonded. That’s gold filled, a thick layer of gold on the outside, with a brass core giving it structure underneath.

This is completely different from gold plating, where a microscopically thin layer of gold is applied through an electrical process. Gold filled uses a mechanical bonding process and contains significantly more gold. All gold filled at Bowerbird Jewels is 14K and meets the minimum 5% gold composition standard which means 5% of the total weight of the piece is gold. That’s a meaningful amount and it’s what gives gold filled its durability and its value. Its not solid gold even though it can look exactly like it.

How do you identify Gold Filled?

Genuine gold filled material carries a specific hallmark: 1/20 14K (If the gold layer is 14K). That marking tells you that the piece is 1/20th 14 karat gold by weight the standard composition for gold filled material. It’s the clearest indicator that what you’re buying is the real thing.

It’s worth knowing because not everything sold as gold filled actually is. There are plenty of pieces in the market that use the term loosely without meeting the standard. If you’re buying gold filled jewellery it’s worth looking for that hallmark. If it isn’t there ask to have it pointed out. A piece that can’t be identified as 1/20 14K may not be genuine gold filled material. The exception here is very small fine items where the hallmark cannot be added.

At Bowerbird Jewels all our gold filled pieces meet this standard. We’ll always tell you exactly what you’re buying.

How does it wear over time?

Honestly very well, better than almost anything else at this price point. As the gold layer is thick and mechanically bonded rather than electroplated, it resists wear and tarnish far better than gold plated pieces. With proper care, gold filled jewellery can last for years without fading, flaking, or losing its finish.

That said, the gold layer will eventually wear over time depending on the product type and how often it is worn. It won’t happen quickly with normal wear and good care, but it’s worth knowing. If it does wear, the most practical repair option is gold plating over the top. Applying a new gold filled bond to an existing piece is not possible, so plating is the realistic path if you want to restore the finish down the track.

Regular cleaning makes a real difference. Oils from your skin, lotions, and perfume build up on the surface over time and can dull the finish. A gentle clean with a soft cloth after wearing keeps it looking its best.

What designs can be made in Gold Filled?

This is where gold filled is very limited and it’s important to understand this before you buy. We see many items in the market place that are identified as gold filled but knowing how they are constructed means its impossible for them to be made using gold filled methods.

As gold filled is made by wrapping a sheet of gold around a core and permanently bonding it with heat and pressure. Only the most basic forms can be produced this way items like simple wire, flat sheet, and tube. That means the finished pieces are limited to things like simple hoops, chain links, plain beads, and straight tubes. The design range is genuinely narrow. If you’re looking for anything more elaborate than that, it won’t be available in gold filled.

What cannot be made in gold filled: anything cast, any organic or detailed shape, anything with engraving, and anything with diamond cutting. Casting is impossible because the heat required would cause the gold and brass to melt and mix together. Engraving cuts straight through the gold layer and exposes the brass core underneath. Diamond cutting does the same. In all of these cases, the exposed brass will tarnish over time and can leave a green mark on the skin.

The same applies anywhere the material has been cut during making. Wire wrapping, riveting, or beading where wire ends are left exposed all reveal the brass core at the cut point. Over time, that’s where tarnish or discolouration can appear. It is not a defect. It is the nature of the material, and something worth knowing before you buy.

What about water and everyday wear?

We won’t call gold filled waterproof. Gold filled manufacturers themselves advise against making that claim. Gold filled is more water-resistant than gold plated or vermeil, but it is not waterproof and should not be treated as such.

Brief, incidental water contact such as washing your hands, is generally fine if you dry the piece promptly. What to avoid is anything more than that: swimming, showering, soaking, chlorine, and salt water. Over time, think years chemicals and lotions like creams, sweat, chlorine and everyday wear and tear will wear on the gold layer and shorten the life of the piece.

Put your jewellery on last, after skincare and fragrance, and take it off before any water activity. Those two habits alone will make a significant difference to how long your gold filled pieces hold up. With the right care you can expect your gold filled items to last for many years.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

Yes. Gold filled is suitable for all skin types. Because the gold layer is thick and durably bonded, there’s no risk of the base metal coming into contact with your skin under normal wear conditions. It’s a good option if you’ve had reactions to other metals before and want something you can wear without thinking about it.

One thing to be aware of, at any point where the brass core is exposed like a cut wire end, a worn patch, or an engraved surface, the brass can come into contact with skin and cause a reaction in people sensitive to brass or copper. This connects back to the design limitations above. Keeping gold filled pieces clean and being aware of any exposed edges matters more than it might with other materials.

Is Gold Filled right for me?

Gold filled is a genuinely good choice if you want the look of solid gold without the price of solid gold, and you’re happy with the narrow design range that the process allows.

It’s for the woman who puts her jewellery on in the morning and doesn’t think about it again. The one who wants something that holds up to a full day without any special handling. 

Gold filled doesn’t suit everyone. If you’re drawn to more elaborate, organic, or detailed designs, those pieces will be made in vermeil or gold plated, which gives the maker more freedom. But if clean, wearable, and genuinely durable is what you’re after, gold filled is hard to beat at this price point.

Gold Plated Sterling Silver

Gold plated sterling silver is the most affordable way to wear gold jewellery. Done properly, on the right pieces and with the right care, it performs better than its reputation suggests. 

What actually is Gold Plated Sterling Silver?

Gold plated sterling silver is exactly what it sounds like. A layer of gold applied over a sterling silver base through an electroplating process. 

It’s worth understanding how gold plating actually works because not all gold plating is the same. The piece is submerged in a gold plating bath and an electrical current is applied. To explain it simply, the longer the piece stays in the bath, the thicker the gold layer becomes. It’s not applied in separate coats but it’s a single continuous process, and the thickness is determined by factors such as time in the plating solution and current. Flash plating is a term to describe jewellery immersed briefly to change its colour, producing a very thin layer. Thicker gold plated pieces stay in the bath significantly longer, building up a thicker layer of gold. That difference in gold thickness is what you’re paying for when you choose a higher quality plated piece. Price is generally a reliable indicator of plating thickness. A significantly lower price usually reflects a thinner gold layer or a different base metal and that’s worth factoring in when you’re comparing options.

At Bowerbird Jewels, we typically apply 1 micron of gold on pieces like earrings that aren’t in constant contact with water or heavy daily wear. As with all our plated and vermeil pieces, we are independently testing and measure the plating and also use XRF testing to verify thickness before it reaches you.

How do you identify it?

Gold plated sterling silver should always be described clearly as gold plated, with the base metal stated in the product description. You should not have to go searching through FAQ pages to find out what the materials are. If a product description says gold plated without telling you what the base metal is, it’s worth asking. When gold plating wears, a brass base will turn your skin green. A sterling silver base won’t. That’s the difference that matters. The base metal, the plating thickness, and the karat of the gold layer should all be available information easily found in any product description.. 

How does it wear over time?

With the right care, gold plated sterling silver can be long lasting and better than most people expect. We have customers who come back to us regularly telling us how long they’ve had their pieces and how well the plating has held up. Our care guide is not just a nice extra. It’s what makes the real difference between a piece that lasts and one that doesn’t.

Yes the gold layer is thinner than vermeil or gold filled and that is reflected in the price. Over time, with time and without care, the plating will wear. But with a simple, consistent care routine such as keeping pieces dry, storing them properly and cleaning them regularly, the results are genuinely good.

If the plating does wear, replating is always an option. The sterling silver base means the piece has a long life ahead of it if you want to maintain it.

What about water and everyday wear?

Like all coated metals gold plated sterling silver is not tarnish proof or waterproof. Take pieces off before swimming, showering, washing up, or any extended water contact. This is the single most important care habit for plated pieces and the one that makes the biggest difference to longevity.

Chlorine, salt water, cleaning products, lotions, and perfume will all accelerate wear on the gold layer. Put jewellery on last, after skincare and fragrance. Take it off before water and before bed and follow the care guide. Customers who do these things consistently are the ones telling us their pieces still look great years later.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

Gold plated sterling silver is a good option for most people with sensitive skin. The sterling silver base means you’re not wearing brass against your skin, and under normal wear conditions the gold layer sits between the metal and your skin.

Although the alloys used do not contain nickel, sterling silver and gold alloys are produced on shared manufacturing lines. If a nickel-bearing alloy has passed through the same production process, there can be minute trace elements of nickel present in the finished material. This is very rare, and wouldn’t affect the vast majority of people. But if you’re hypersensitive to nickel rather than just sensitive, it’s something to factor in.

Is Gold Plated Sterling Silver right for me?

Gold plated sterling silver is the right choice if you want to build a varied jewellery collection at an accessible price point that looks like real gold, and you're willing to follow a simple care routine to protect it.

It's not the same as vermeil or gold filled in terms of plating thickness and it's priced accordingly. But for what it is, looked after properly, it's a legitimate and enjoyable part of any jewellery collection and a genuinely good starting point for someone building one for the first time.

PVD Stainless Steel

PVD stainless steel is a fashion jewellery material and one of the most durable options available at this price point. It’s also one of the most misrepresented. Here’s what we think you should know.

What actually is PVD?

PVD stands for Physical Vapour Deposition. It’s an industrial coating process, the same technology used in watches, eyeglass frames, and smartphones, that has been adapted for jewellery.

In plain terms a piece of jewellery is placed inside a sealed vacuum chamber. A coating material is vaporised and condenses onto the metal surface as an ultra-thin, extremely hard film. Think of it like spray painting a car in a paint booth but more technical.

The result is a finish that’s genuinely hard and built to handle daily wear in a way that standard gold plating simply cannot match.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

For most people, including most people with mild metal sensitivities, PVD stainless steel is a comfortable option for daily wear. While the PVD finish is intact, it forms a barrier between your skin and the base metal, which reduces direct contact. That matters, but it doesn’t change what the base metal is.

Stainless steel contains nickel. 

You’ll see stainless steel jewellery described as ‘nickel-free’ and ‘hypoallergenic’ across the industry. That’s not accurate, and we won’t say it. Stainless steel, both 316L and 304, contains nickel as part of its alloy composition, typically around 8 to 14 percent depending on the grade.

We test our steel jewellery designs to confirm nickel release is within safe limits and below the thresholds set by the European Union and REACH. REACH stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals. It is a comprehensive European Union regulation designed to protect human health and the environment from the risks posed by hazardous chemicals. We know in stainless steel there is nickel present as part of the alloy but we independently test our metals to make sure that the nickel absorption is below the guidelines. We are not required to do any of this as Australia has no regulation on nickel absorption standards. We use the EU guidelines due to their strict requirements for nickel and heavy metals to make sure our jewellery is safe to wear.

For most people who describe themselves as nickel-sensitive, stainless steel jewellery worn with an intact PVD finish is comfortable. The nuance worth knowing is that as the coating wears over time, you come into more direct contact with the base metal. For those with a severe nickel allergy rather than a general sensitivity, that’s something to factor in, particularly for rings and bracelets where the coating wears faster.

About the gold colour

In most PVD jewellery, the gold colour comes from a ceramic compound called titanium nitride or zirconium nitride. These compounds produce a warm, gold-toned film. They generally do not contain gold.

When you see '18K gold PVD' on a product label, in most cases that refers to the colour shade, not to the presence of actual gold. This is standard practice across the category. Knowing it means you can read a product description accurately, wherever you shop.

This means that PVD stainless steel is a fashion jewellery material with a gold-toned finish. It is not a gold jewellery material. It doesn't carry the same intrinsic value as gold vermeil or gold fill, and it's priced to reflect that. The durability is real. The gold is the colour.

What's underneath: why the base metal matters

The quality of a PVD piece depends as much on what's underneath the coating as on the coating itself.

We use 316L stainless steel wherever we can. It's a surgical-grade alloy, the same material used in medical implants and body piercing jewellery, and it's genuinely well-suited to jewellery that gets worn hard. It contains molybdenum, which gives it specific resistance to the kind of corrosion caused by sweat, saltwater, and chlorine. It's also hard enough to support a PVD coating properly, so the finish stays intact under impact rather than cracking.

Some components in our range, clasps, findings, and certain fittings, are made in 304 stainless steel rather than 316L. This is unavoidable, we just want you to know. All parts are tested to ensure they comply with nickel release standards.

How we verify our PVD pieces

We test our PVD stainless steel pieces for nickel absorption into the skin and for heavy metals, to confirm that everything in this category meets REACH standards.

That testing matters for a few reasons. First, it confirms that what we're sending you is safe, that nickel absorption is within safe limits and that no harmful substances are present at unsafe levels. Second, it gives us documented evidence we can stand behind, not just our word that a piece is safe to wear. Finally we make sure that our jewellery does not contain heavy metals and is safe to wear.

REACH compliance is particularly important for anyone with sensitive skin or metal sensitivities. It's a meaningful standard, and it's one we apply to everything in this category before it reaches you. 

How does it wear and is it waterproof?

For earrings, pendants, bracelets  and necklaces worn with reasonable daily care, you can realistically expect the finish to hold up well for many years. For rings, which are in constant contact with hard surfaces, water, and chemicals throughout the day, expect less, how much less depends on how they’re treated, whether they’re taken off before water or chlorine exposure, and how well they’re looked after.

The word ‘waterproof’ gets used a lot in this category. We won’t use it, because it implies a permanence the finish doesn’t have. PVD stainless steel handles water, sweat and daily life better than any other material in our range, brief contact with water is not a concern, and showering in it occasionally is unlikely to cause immediate damage. Water-resistant is accurate and genuinely impressive compared to most other materials at this price point. We know after having worked in jewellery manufacturing for over 30 years that no surface finish is permanent, and we’d rather you know that upfront than discover it later. 

The habits that extend the life of your pieces are simple and worth building. Take pieces off before swimming in a pool or the ocean. Put jewellery on last, after skincare, perfume, and hairspray. Dry pieces promptly after water contact. Store pieces in a pouch or box when you’re not wearing them, rather than loose where they can scratch against each other. Chlorine, abrasive products, and chemical-heavy skincare applied directly to the piece will all shorten the life of the coating and constant hard contact with surfaces, rings against keyboards or gym equipment especially, accelerates wear more than anything else.

Think of it like nail polish. A single coat and a gel finish are both nail coatings, they’ll wear differently, but neither lasts forever. PVD works the same way. The process is more durable than standard plating, but it is still a coating, and over time it will wear.

What happens when the coating wears?

If a PVD finish wears through, what’s left underneath is stainless steel. A perfectly wearable, corrosion-resistant metal. The piece doesn’t become unwearable. It just loses its gold colour.

The more significant thing to understand is that PVD cannot be re-coated by a local jeweller. The process requires a specialised vacuum facility, it can't be touched up or refreshed the way gold vermeil or rhodium plating can. For most pieces, replacement is the practical outcome once the finish has fully worn through, rather than restoration.

This is one of the genuine differences between PVD stainless steel and precious metal based jewellery, and it's worth factoring in when you're deciding what to buy. It's not a reason to avoid PVD, at its price point and durability level it represents strong value. It's just a different kind of material with a different kind of lifespan.

Is PVD stainless steel right for me?

PVD stainless steel is a strong choice if you want a piece that keeps up with your life without asking much from you in return. It suits daily wear better than almost anything else at this price point.

It also suits the buyer who wants to understand what they’re getting before they spend, the one who’d rather know the honest lifespan of a piece than be told it lasts forever.